The Wave by Maggi Hambling

This weekend I headed from London to Cambridge for a day trip. While there, I checked out the Fitzwilliam Museum. It turned out there was an exhibition on called The Wave by artist Maggi Hambling. On show was a group of large scale paintings depicting the power and energy of the North Sea.

The brochure states the exhibition 'reveals the artist’s long standing fascination with the elemental character of the sea off the Suffolk Coast. Among her most ambitious in scale, these evocative and sensual portraits of the wave demonstrate Hambling’s increasingly bold way of working, confronting, the viewer with all the power, grandeur and beauty of the sea.'

I love the fact that everyone has their own thoughts and feelings of the seas behaviour. Surfers learn to respect waves particularly when learning. It is important to know your limit and not to mess with large ferocious breaks that are clearly beyond your level.

Seeing and hearing waves crashing or gently lapping, people can decide whether they think the sea is angry or calm. Human behaviour is very much like the sea in we also have wild and calm days. But, there is no better way to relax than a great surfing session.

Artificial reefs

Reading the paper on the tube last week I was disappointed to see an article on Europe’s first artificial reef, built in Dorset, is not performing as well as was hoped. I was fascinated to read the reef was built by a New Zealand company. While there has been negative feedback, visitor numbers and house prices have rocketed in the Dorset area. There are moves to try to improve the reef.

Reading the story did make me wonder if we should be tampering with nature. Shouldn’t we accept the world’s breaks that have developed naturally? Although, I can see there would be a strong argument for the building of reefs with minimal environmental damage. I support the move of encouraging world governments to protect natural surf breaks, particularly when we see adventure tourism and seaside developments continuing to be developed. If you are interesting in the artificial reef check out the story yourself.

Happy surfing!

Surfing in Britain

It has been a cracker of a weekend here in London. It has been bliss in the warm, all day sunshine. Let’s hope it will be one of the hottest summer’s ever recorded as has been forecast.

It was awesome to pick up a free copy of TNT magazine at a tube station and to see the cover story was on surfing in Britain. Check out Catching Waves, Hit The Surf in Britain. It is a really well written story with helpful advice on where and when to go surfing.

I envy those who have close access to the beach.

Happy surfing!

Wipe outs

Hello from the United Kingdom! After two long flights I finally made it to old London town.

I had to laugh when I looked at my blog on arrival to see I had been ripped off by another blogger. I don’t care if my blog does suck. It is mine so I can do what I want. I think that dude needs to chill out. I don’t care that I am a bad surfer. I admit I am not great but at least I give it a go.

Anyway, to get over my jet lag I have been checking out some wipe out videos on YouTube.

I liked Jaws Wipeout as the sound is awesome even if it has been added later. It is a pretty big wave.

I also liked the following video courtesy of Deep Water Film. You do wonder what the consequence of this high speed wipe out was.

In Surviving A Big Wipe Out video by Disovery Earth, big wave surfer Garrett “G-Mac” McNamara claims he enjoys wiping out on giant waves in deep water. That is just crazy! He talks about arms being only held on by the skin after a wipe out …. haha, madness.

Finally the Style Evolution Wipeout Project video captures old wipe outs. No doubt these will long continue into the future.

Happy surfing everyone! Enjoy those waves.

Don’t sit and watch life disappear

After a lot of thought and consideration I have decided to bite the bullet and head to the UK for a year. It seems a good idea to follow the sun. Hopefully, England’s warming up as New Zealand’s summer draws to an end. With a bit of luck there will be a chance to try some UK surfing.

I have undertaken a lot of thinking about this move. Thoughts have swirled through my head for months like violent waves. I have been weighing up what I will miss, whilst what I could potentially gain. Friends and family will be sorely missed. Emailing and Skyping will be handy. My local beach will always be here to come home to. I am almost certain I will come to love it more. I do hope to explore new beaches on my travels.

I don’t want to look back with regret at not doing an overseas experience (OE). I think the whole cruisy, carefree lifestyle is a myth. It seems to me everyone does need some sort of a plan. Perhaps, you can cruise after you have achieved in life and completed major goals like world travel or had a successful good occupation. I will stop rambling here ...

On Saturday there was a messy 3 metre swell out at Waimairi Beach, Christchurch. There was no gap between the breaking waves. Paddling out was hard work. The waves really taught me I must learn to duck dive. I got pummelled out there. After 2 hours I slunk back to the car with my surfboard. The fact that there were no other surfers indicated that it wasn’t ideal conditions but perseverance wins on the day. I am determined to get better at this sport. I also need to surf as much as I can at the moment as am leaving for the UK next week.

Dunedin's stunning beaches

This week I have head south to Dunedin to visit family. Dunedin, situated on the east coast of the South Island of New Zealand is a Scottish settlement. It is a popular student centre and is the second largest city in the South Island.

It has been absolutely fantastic beach weather down here the last couple of days. I visited St Clair, a well known surfing beach, and it was packed with people sun bathing. The surf was flat but there were still a small group of surfers just cooling off on their boards. If, I had had my board with me I would have been out there too. There was a longboarding event held at St Clair in the weekend.

I walked from St Clair Beach to neighbouring St Kilda, a short walk. St Kilda is another renowned surfing beach in Dunedin and is surrounded by dunes. There was a couple of surfers out there paddling around. St Kilda has been described as one of New Zealand’s best beaches. I would have to agree with this.

I will definitely be back to surf both these beaches in the future. I recommend you grab your surfboard or an ice cream and get along and join me. Both, these beaches are truly stunning. The pictures for this post were taken tonight from the St Clair esplanade. It was a cracker of a night, really warm.

New Brighton, Christchurch, New Zealand

These pictures were taken last week at New Brighton, Christchurch, New Zealand. It is amazing how deceptive a photo can be! You would think the surf was good. Unfortunately, the only waves were breaking on to the beach. You could also easily make the mistake of thinking it was tropical by the colour of the water. I wish the water was warmer. One day, I will get round to buying those booties. The third picture is a derelict gymnasium on Marine Parade. It is a real shame that a property in such a wonderful location isn't being used.

Hopefully, better surf this week!

Mother Nature - If you respect her will she look after you?

No surfer can deny that a delight of surfing is becoming part of nature. There is something really special about being out in the ocean on your board. Surfing can be a real stress reliever and a time to unwind from life's chaos. Alternatively, it can be an absolute adrenalin rush for those who like to surf big waves. I guess there is a different mindset between long boarders and big wave surfers. You are lucky if you can ace both surfing styles.

I saw this quote by the legendary Kelly Slater ~

"Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.”

I think Slater’s quote illustrates what a great surfer he is. He becomes part of the wave. Clearly, it is important to respect Mother Nature and you just hope she will return the favour and not punish you … hehe. I learnt this the hard way with a gashed head and a sprained neck. All joking aside it is important to know your skill level.

The great thing about surfing is the respect for nature doesn’t just end in the water with the waves. There is the beach itself, marine life and often spectacular sunrises and sunsets to appreciate. I think a lot of surfers acknowledge this by becoming avid environmentalists and photographers. Clearly, there is a case to argued for surfing to be recognised as a religion.

Short boarding tips / help

As you know I am a poor surfer even on a long board therefore I was horrendously bad on my new short board. I clearly made the transition to a short board too fast. Despite this I am going to persist with both boards. Ideally, I will one day be able to perform the graceful art of long boarding and also the modern tricks of short boarding.

I did some research on how to be a better short boarder. Here are some tips which will hopefully help me and others who may also be learning:

1. Practice, practice and practice! Surf as often as possible. Clearly, I need to get my ass off surfing the internet and on to the waves. Catch as many waves as you can and don't beat yourself up or worry too much about your mistakes. Good things take time.

2. Fitness is important – both upper body muscles and legs. This is required for paddling power and getting to your feet. I need to definitely improve on my fitness.

3. Although, a bit embarrassing it is not a bad idea to practice the standing up position out of the water. Lie in a paddle like position then push up and spring your legs under into the standing stance.

4. Balance is important so when in the water practice lying flat and sitting up on your board. Also practice swinging around 180 degrees pulling yourself into position ready for the incoming wave. Being able to accelerate quickly into position is essential so also practice short / fast paddling.

5. Put your chin up and look where you are going, not at your feet. Have your arms out stretched a bit, your knees bent a little and stay calm and focused.

6. Learn to read the waves and understand how it is going to wall, section or fat out. I am still learning to master this skill.

Hope this is some help. Happy surfing everyone.

New Zealand Surfing Guide

If you are learning to surf or are experienced, a local Kiwi or a tourist, you will find the jam packed New Zealand Surfing Guide very handy. This 550 page guide contains 470 detailed break maps. There are also 80 line up pictures and a 16 page colour gallery. This guide is perfect for planning a surfing road trip.

Two years of work went into compiling this guide - a lot of passion and love for surfing. Local surfers assisted in providing detailed information on the listed spots. The surfing community are lucky to have been given such great knowledge and insight.

Clever icons give detailed information for each spot and a stoke metre rates each break on a scale of 1 to 10. The guide also shows surfers how to learn to read the weather and predict swells. There are over 60 local area synoptic charts featured in the book.

Author, Peter Morse, acknowledges how complex New Zealand’s volcanic and reef lined coastline is and how much of it is still largely unexplored.

This gold bar sized guide book is just that gold. It is a perfect size for the car glove box or your carry bag where you can swat up on your next surfing adventure when you have a spare moment.