Don’t sit and watch life disappear

After a lot of thought and consideration I have decided to bite the bullet and head to the UK for a year. It seems a good idea to follow the sun. Hopefully, England’s warming up as New Zealand’s summer draws to an end. With a bit of luck there will be a chance to try some UK surfing.

I have undertaken a lot of thinking about this move. Thoughts have swirled through my head for months like violent waves. I have been weighing up what I will miss, whilst what I could potentially gain. Friends and family will be sorely missed. Emailing and Skyping will be handy. My local beach will always be here to come home to. I am almost certain I will come to love it more. I do hope to explore new beaches on my travels.

I don’t want to look back with regret at not doing an overseas experience (OE). I think the whole cruisy, carefree lifestyle is a myth. It seems to me everyone does need some sort of a plan. Perhaps, you can cruise after you have achieved in life and completed major goals like world travel or had a successful good occupation. I will stop rambling here ...

On Saturday there was a messy 3 metre swell out at Waimairi Beach, Christchurch. There was no gap between the breaking waves. Paddling out was hard work. The waves really taught me I must learn to duck dive. I got pummelled out there. After 2 hours I slunk back to the car with my surfboard. The fact that there were no other surfers indicated that it wasn’t ideal conditions but perseverance wins on the day. I am determined to get better at this sport. I also need to surf as much as I can at the moment as am leaving for the UK next week.

Short boarding tips / help

As you know I am a poor surfer even on a long board therefore I was horrendously bad on my new short board. I clearly made the transition to a short board too fast. Despite this I am going to persist with both boards. Ideally, I will one day be able to perform the graceful art of long boarding and also the modern tricks of short boarding.

I did some research on how to be a better short boarder. Here are some tips which will hopefully help me and others who may also be learning:

1. Practice, practice and practice! Surf as often as possible. Clearly, I need to get my ass off surfing the internet and on to the waves. Catch as many waves as you can and don't beat yourself up or worry too much about your mistakes. Good things take time.

2. Fitness is important – both upper body muscles and legs. This is required for paddling power and getting to your feet. I need to definitely improve on my fitness.

3. Although, a bit embarrassing it is not a bad idea to practice the standing up position out of the water. Lie in a paddle like position then push up and spring your legs under into the standing stance.

4. Balance is important so when in the water practice lying flat and sitting up on your board. Also practice swinging around 180 degrees pulling yourself into position ready for the incoming wave. Being able to accelerate quickly into position is essential so also practice short / fast paddling.

5. Put your chin up and look where you are going, not at your feet. Have your arms out stretched a bit, your knees bent a little and stay calm and focused.

6. Learn to read the waves and understand how it is going to wall, section or fat out. I am still learning to master this skill.

Hope this is some help. Happy surfing everyone.

Paddling out – Feel the burn!

Nothing beats the feeling of standing up the first time when learning to surf. It is a huge sense of achievement. I am sure many surfers can remember this moment fondly. I couldn’t get the smile off my face. In order to catch a wave you must learn the unglamorous but essential skill of paddling out. If you aren’t incredibly fit (like me haha) don’t buy a really heavy surfboard, although beginners are best to learn on long boards. A soft top board is ideal if you are starting out. These reduce the number bruises you will get.

Before you begin paddling out it is a good idea to stand on the beach and look to see if there is a lull in the waves. If there is this is the best place to paddle. You save your energy when you don’t have to fight the waves. However, often conditions will dictate and there isn’t a lull.

I always walk out with my board until the water is just over my waist. This allows me to adjust to the cooler water temperature down here in New Zealand and also to note whether there is a drag at the beach and the direction it is pulling.

When you lay on the deck of your board the aim of paddling is to find the best trim position that provides the least resistance. Cup your hands to improve your pull. Lift your chest slightly when being hit by incoming waves. When your board moves smoothly through the water you have found the best paddling position. Most boards you try will be slightly different.

Today I went surfing for 2 hours in a 3 metre swell. I couldn’t paddle out as far as I would have liked. My arms began to ache. The more I paddled the more I got pushed back. I ended out being absolutely punished. It is amazing what odd angles your body can end up in when you are wiped out by big waves ... haha. It’s always fun to catch the smaller waves closer to the shore. They are also good to practice paddling out. But, one day I will hopefully be able to surf bigger waves.