Aloha, Bruddah!

Entering surfing at an older age and possibly because I live in New Zealand, I am not familiar with a lot of surfing terminology from today or yesteryear.

Surfers certainly have a unique language in describing all facets of the sport / hobby. If you are interested in the lingo look no further than Riptionary.com. It is the largest online surf lexicon and got to this stage from passionate surfers who have submitted entries and still do today. I haven’t had so much fun exploring a website in ages. I would be known as a Barney:

Someone who is less than skilled at surfing. Orginally derived from the cartoon character Barney on The Flinstones because he was similar to a hodad.

It is the most neat site that contains over one thousand entries divided into five broad categories: Culture, Oceanic, Equipment, Technique and Old School. A Most Popular category is also featured that lists the most searched terms and if you are like me and not up with the play there is a For Example category where terms are shown in context.

Enjoy this awesome dictionary.

Take it Easy,

Brendon

Two fish, one meat pattie, a hot dog & two scoops, thanks

The title of this post is probably a bit hypocritical after me going on about the importance of fitness in my last post. But what better way is there to finish a surfing session than having fish and chips on the beach.

I think fish and chips (or should I say fush and chups) are the greatest takeaway. You have probably guessed this by the fact I have devoted a post to them. I don’t see any problem in eating them as long as it’s in moderation. Although, I have to confess I have been guilty of eating them a bit too often in the past. I guess when you start struggling more than normal to get into your wetsuit it is probably time to lay off them … hehe

Visiting tourists also seem to love getting their fingers into this delicious takeaway. Although, originally from the United Kingdom, fish and chips have become a real kiwi tradition. They are New Zealand’s most popular takeaway. I think everyone loves ripping the parcel open and divulging in this delicacy.

The next time it is a pleasant day or evening why not treat yourself, your family or mates and get some. They are an awesome meal after surfing when you are too sore to cook or prepare something to eat. The best shops serve fresh fish from the same beach you are surfing. Grab your tomato sauce and enjoy some today. Go on, you know you want to!
ps ... Remember to dispose of your rubbish sensibly.

Short boarding tips / help

As you know I am a poor surfer even on a long board therefore I was horrendously bad on my new short board. I clearly made the transition to a short board too fast. Despite this I am going to persist with both boards. Ideally, I will one day be able to perform the graceful art of long boarding and also the modern tricks of short boarding.

I did some research on how to be a better short boarder. Here are some tips which will hopefully help me and others who may also be learning:

1. Practice, practice and practice! Surf as often as possible. Clearly, I need to get my ass off surfing the internet and on to the waves. Catch as many waves as you can and don't beat yourself up or worry too much about your mistakes. Good things take time.

2. Fitness is important – both upper body muscles and legs. This is required for paddling power and getting to your feet. I need to definitely improve on my fitness.

3. Although, a bit embarrassing it is not a bad idea to practice the standing up position out of the water. Lie in a paddle like position then push up and spring your legs under into the standing stance.

4. Balance is important so when in the water practice lying flat and sitting up on your board. Also practice swinging around 180 degrees pulling yourself into position ready for the incoming wave. Being able to accelerate quickly into position is essential so also practice short / fast paddling.

5. Put your chin up and look where you are going, not at your feet. Have your arms out stretched a bit, your knees bent a little and stay calm and focused.

6. Learn to read the waves and understand how it is going to wall, section or fat out. I am still learning to master this skill.

Hope this is some help. Happy surfing everyone.

It was like trying to surf a match stick!

Last week I bought a second hand short board. I thought it was time to move from a long board and learn the art of short boarding. More manoeuvrability has always appealed to me. I want to learn how to perform high speed turns.

Then, today, I went surfing to try out my new board. Standing on the dunes at the beach I knew it was not going to be a great day as the waves were small. It was a rubbish day weather wise, drizzle and 13 degrees (so much for summer) but I didn’t care. The weather proved the least of my problems … haha.

Carrying the 6’6’’ board to the water was a piece of cake in comparison to my 9’2” long board. There is nothing worse than fighting the wind with your board on the way to the water. I found the centre of the board easy enough when paddling out but standing was a different story. The waves were not steep and every time I tried to stand I fell off. Balancing was a real problem. Even if the waves had been better I know I still would have struggled.

My long board is so much easier to surf. It is like standing on a barge, compared to the match stick sized short board. After two hours the waves were getting even smaller so I called it a day. I learnt gradual process from a bigger board to a shorter narrow board certainly takes practice. Reading the wave patterns is also more important when using a short board.

Can you handle the Jandal?

I am an easy going person who has never been into expensive surf clothing labels. I can’t stand the idea of people thinking they are better than others by the clothing they wear. My favourite item of clothing are my jandals (flip flops). This form of footwear is awesome for knocking around the beach and town during summer.

I have just completed a Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos holiday and would not have survived without my jandals. Furthermore, the price for a pair is fantastic. They are dirt cheap and available in hundreds of colours and designs. There is absolutely no need to buy expensive ones!

Jandals can be found in all corners of the globe and are worn by locals in developing countries right through to those in Beverley Hills, USA. The great thing is they are not restricted to a specific social class. They are just good old fashioned jandals for anyone and everyone.

The term jandals is unique to New Zealand and they have become part of Kiwi culture. They are the perfect gift for surfers and beach lovers. It doesn’t matter how wet they get, how much sun they see or even if the dog runs away with one. Let the revolution continue. Toast the Jandals.

New Zealand Surfing Guide

If you are learning to surf or are experienced, a local Kiwi or a tourist, you will find the jam packed New Zealand Surfing Guide very handy. This 550 page guide contains 470 detailed break maps. There are also 80 line up pictures and a 16 page colour gallery. This guide is perfect for planning a surfing road trip.

Two years of work went into compiling this guide - a lot of passion and love for surfing. Local surfers assisted in providing detailed information on the listed spots. The surfing community are lucky to have been given such great knowledge and insight.

Clever icons give detailed information for each spot and a stoke metre rates each break on a scale of 1 to 10. The guide also shows surfers how to learn to read the weather and predict swells. There are over 60 local area synoptic charts featured in the book.

Author, Peter Morse, acknowledges how complex New Zealand’s volcanic and reef lined coastline is and how much of it is still largely unexplored.

This gold bar sized guide book is just that gold. It is a perfect size for the car glove box or your carry bag where you can swat up on your next surfing adventure when you have a spare moment.

Paddling out – Feel the burn!

Nothing beats the feeling of standing up the first time when learning to surf. It is a huge sense of achievement. I am sure many surfers can remember this moment fondly. I couldn’t get the smile off my face. In order to catch a wave you must learn the unglamorous but essential skill of paddling out. If you aren’t incredibly fit (like me haha) don’t buy a really heavy surfboard, although beginners are best to learn on long boards. A soft top board is ideal if you are starting out. These reduce the number bruises you will get.

Before you begin paddling out it is a good idea to stand on the beach and look to see if there is a lull in the waves. If there is this is the best place to paddle. You save your energy when you don’t have to fight the waves. However, often conditions will dictate and there isn’t a lull.

I always walk out with my board until the water is just over my waist. This allows me to adjust to the cooler water temperature down here in New Zealand and also to note whether there is a drag at the beach and the direction it is pulling.

When you lay on the deck of your board the aim of paddling is to find the best trim position that provides the least resistance. Cup your hands to improve your pull. Lift your chest slightly when being hit by incoming waves. When your board moves smoothly through the water you have found the best paddling position. Most boards you try will be slightly different.

Today I went surfing for 2 hours in a 3 metre swell. I couldn’t paddle out as far as I would have liked. My arms began to ache. The more I paddled the more I got pushed back. I ended out being absolutely punished. It is amazing what odd angles your body can end up in when you are wiped out by big waves ... haha. It’s always fun to catch the smaller waves closer to the shore. They are also good to practice paddling out. But, one day I will hopefully be able to surf bigger waves.

Greetings everyone!

Right, let's do this! This blog is all about surfing . As you may gather from its title I am a really, really bad surfer. In just a few months I have had a sprained neck, gashed head and a countless number of bruises. However, I love the sport / hobby. As long as you are having fun who cares how good or bad you are. I am a Kiwi and have been surfing for a couple of years now. My local beaches are New Brighton, North Beach & Waimari in Christchurch, New Zealand.

This blog is for everyone - the global surfing community, beginners to advanced, short and long boarders. Everything surfing and surfing related will be discussed. Please feel free to contribute and offer advice to this poor surfer. Enjoy the waves, Brendon