The Wave by Maggi Hambling

This weekend I headed from London to Cambridge for a day trip. While there, I checked out the Fitzwilliam Museum. It turned out there was an exhibition on called The Wave by artist Maggi Hambling. On show was a group of large scale paintings depicting the power and energy of the North Sea.

The brochure states the exhibition 'reveals the artist’s long standing fascination with the elemental character of the sea off the Suffolk Coast. Among her most ambitious in scale, these evocative and sensual portraits of the wave demonstrate Hambling’s increasingly bold way of working, confronting, the viewer with all the power, grandeur and beauty of the sea.'

I love the fact that everyone has their own thoughts and feelings of the seas behaviour. Surfers learn to respect waves particularly when learning. It is important to know your limit and not to mess with large ferocious breaks that are clearly beyond your level.

Seeing and hearing waves crashing or gently lapping, people can decide whether they think the sea is angry or calm. Human behaviour is very much like the sea in we also have wild and calm days. But, there is no better way to relax than a great surfing session.

Artificial reefs

Reading the paper on the tube last week I was disappointed to see an article on Europe’s first artificial reef, built in Dorset, is not performing as well as was hoped. I was fascinated to read the reef was built by a New Zealand company. While there has been negative feedback, visitor numbers and house prices have rocketed in the Dorset area. There are moves to try to improve the reef.

Reading the story did make me wonder if we should be tampering with nature. Shouldn’t we accept the world’s breaks that have developed naturally? Although, I can see there would be a strong argument for the building of reefs with minimal environmental damage. I support the move of encouraging world governments to protect natural surf breaks, particularly when we see adventure tourism and seaside developments continuing to be developed. If you are interesting in the artificial reef check out the story yourself.

Happy surfing!

Surfing in Britain

It has been a cracker of a weekend here in London. It has been bliss in the warm, all day sunshine. Let’s hope it will be one of the hottest summer’s ever recorded as has been forecast.

It was awesome to pick up a free copy of TNT magazine at a tube station and to see the cover story was on surfing in Britain. Check out Catching Waves, Hit The Surf in Britain. It is a really well written story with helpful advice on where and when to go surfing.

I envy those who have close access to the beach.

Happy surfing!

Kiwi conquers Tahiti’s Teahupo'o!

Checking news from back home in New Zealand I saw Doug Young and Sam Hawke surfed Tahiti’s Teahupo'o, one of the biggest, dangerous breaks in the world. How awesome to conquer that on St Patrick’s Day!

Check out Young and Hawke's great tale, that screened on TVNZ, and how Sam 'commandeered' his mum’s car to get him and his mate to the airport to get the only plane to Tahiti. The image for this post was snapped by Josh Humbert and taken from Surf.co.nz

Woohoo, go Kiwis!

Surf sounds

Did the best surf music come out of the groovy 60s?, the generation of drug, sex and rock n roll. Everything did seem so much more cruisy then! Messing around on YouTube I found this old surfing music play list. It’s pretty cool, particularly if you are a fan of the Beach Boys. Their music certainly reflected the 60s southern Californian culture. This was another old school play list which has some good tunes. There are some real retro videos.

Pushing forward a few decades, I found this modern ‘new school’ mix which also has some great songs and videos. Modern surfing music does still have a unique sound which can be a mash up with other genres like rock, reggae and even easy listening. This list of surf musicians taken from Wikipedia might interest you.

Anyway, enjoy!

Wipe outs

Hello from the United Kingdom! After two long flights I finally made it to old London town.

I had to laugh when I looked at my blog on arrival to see I had been ripped off by another blogger. I don’t care if my blog does suck. It is mine so I can do what I want. I think that dude needs to chill out. I don’t care that I am a bad surfer. I admit I am not great but at least I give it a go.

Anyway, to get over my jet lag I have been checking out some wipe out videos on YouTube.

I liked Jaws Wipeout as the sound is awesome even if it has been added later. It is a pretty big wave.

I also liked the following video courtesy of Deep Water Film. You do wonder what the consequence of this high speed wipe out was.

In Surviving A Big Wipe Out video by Disovery Earth, big wave surfer Garrett “G-Mac” McNamara claims he enjoys wiping out on giant waves in deep water. That is just crazy! He talks about arms being only held on by the skin after a wipe out …. haha, madness.

Finally the Style Evolution Wipeout Project video captures old wipe outs. No doubt these will long continue into the future.

Happy surfing everyone! Enjoy those waves.

Don’t sit and watch life disappear

After a lot of thought and consideration I have decided to bite the bullet and head to the UK for a year. It seems a good idea to follow the sun. Hopefully, England’s warming up as New Zealand’s summer draws to an end. With a bit of luck there will be a chance to try some UK surfing.

I have undertaken a lot of thinking about this move. Thoughts have swirled through my head for months like violent waves. I have been weighing up what I will miss, whilst what I could potentially gain. Friends and family will be sorely missed. Emailing and Skyping will be handy. My local beach will always be here to come home to. I am almost certain I will come to love it more. I do hope to explore new beaches on my travels.

I don’t want to look back with regret at not doing an overseas experience (OE). I think the whole cruisy, carefree lifestyle is a myth. It seems to me everyone does need some sort of a plan. Perhaps, you can cruise after you have achieved in life and completed major goals like world travel or had a successful good occupation. I will stop rambling here ...

On Saturday there was a messy 3 metre swell out at Waimairi Beach, Christchurch. There was no gap between the breaking waves. Paddling out was hard work. The waves really taught me I must learn to duck dive. I got pummelled out there. After 2 hours I slunk back to the car with my surfboard. The fact that there were no other surfers indicated that it wasn’t ideal conditions but perseverance wins on the day. I am determined to get better at this sport. I also need to surf as much as I can at the moment as am leaving for the UK next week.

Dunedin's stunning beaches

This week I have head south to Dunedin to visit family. Dunedin, situated on the east coast of the South Island of New Zealand is a Scottish settlement. It is a popular student centre and is the second largest city in the South Island.

It has been absolutely fantastic beach weather down here the last couple of days. I visited St Clair, a well known surfing beach, and it was packed with people sun bathing. The surf was flat but there were still a small group of surfers just cooling off on their boards. If, I had had my board with me I would have been out there too. There was a longboarding event held at St Clair in the weekend.

I walked from St Clair Beach to neighbouring St Kilda, a short walk. St Kilda is another renowned surfing beach in Dunedin and is surrounded by dunes. There was a couple of surfers out there paddling around. St Kilda has been described as one of New Zealand’s best beaches. I would have to agree with this.

I will definitely be back to surf both these beaches in the future. I recommend you grab your surfboard or an ice cream and get along and join me. Both, these beaches are truly stunning. The pictures for this post were taken tonight from the St Clair esplanade. It was a cracker of a night, really warm.

Surf, surf you have gone away. Please come back another day!

Today, I went surfing with a mate out at Waimari Beach, Christchurch. Unfortunately, the waves weren’t great. They were small and really choppy meaning there wasn't a lot of opportunities to stand. The poor conditions explained why there were only a couple of surfers out there. The few good waves were again breaking really close to shore so you had to be careful when abandoning your board in the shallow water as you could easily injure yourself when you hit the ocean floor. It was still a couple of hours of good fun. What better way is there to spend a Saturday evening? The small waves definitely suited longboarding.


It was cool to see a mum and her older daughter out having a go. Mum was boogie boarding and her daughter was surfing. They appeared to be having fun too. It made me think how awesome it would be to have come from a surfing family. I wish others in my family surfed. Other than us beginners floundering in these poor waves there were no other surfers. Hopefully, the surf will improve in the next couple of weeks, especially before summer disappears. Even, in these mild conditions, it amazes me how tiring surfing is on your body. I felt so sleepy once home. Also, it wasn’t great rolling my ankle when I came off my board. Hmm, I really am a bad surfer.

New Brighton, Christchurch, New Zealand

These pictures were taken last week at New Brighton, Christchurch, New Zealand. It is amazing how deceptive a photo can be! You would think the surf was good. Unfortunately, the only waves were breaking on to the beach. You could also easily make the mistake of thinking it was tropical by the colour of the water. I wish the water was warmer. One day, I will get round to buying those booties. The third picture is a derelict gymnasium on Marine Parade. It is a real shame that a property in such a wonderful location isn't being used.

Hopefully, better surf this week!

How do you get your board to the beach?

Every time I go on a surfing session getting my board to the beach is never easy. In fact, it is a nightmare getting a 9’2” longboard into a Mazda 323 sedan. You almost need to be a magician. I have to gently prize the board through the boot over the folded down backseat and then over the folded back front passenger seat. The end result is a snugly fit board with its nose pressed up against the windscreen. Thank God, I haven't had to slam on my brakes for any reason yet. If you hear of a flying surfboard after a nose to tail at a set of traffic lights, you will know it will be me ... hehe.

This drama makes me think how great it would be to own a bigger car or a van, especially an iconic VW. Unfortunately, the retro VW vans are expensive. They have become cultural icons, particularly among surfers. Tidy ones are few and far between, rare as hens teeth. A cheaper alternative for me would be buying a roof rack. Then again, a van would also make changing in and out of my wetsuit a lot easier. It would also be great for a surfing road trip and living rough for a few days or weeks. Think of the camping stuff you could store in a van. I am beginning to sound all hippie. I would be interested to know what method of transport you guys use for getting your boards to the beach.

Desserted Beach! What's that about?

Today, was a great summer’s day down here in Christchurch, New ZeaIand. It was warm and sticky. I headed to Waimairi Beach with surfboard in toe. Unfortunately, the waves were flat which meant no surfing. There were a couple of keen guys still having a go. I had my camera with me so thought this was a pretty good back up plan.

When I was messing around with my camera it kept crossing my mind just how under-utilized beaches are in New Zealand. Every time I have visited this summer I have noticed under usage. There was hardly a man and his dog to be seen which is pretty sad. Who knows?, I may feel differently if the beach was packed chock-a-block with people. But, you would think there would be some Kiwis out trying to tan up their milk bottle legs … hehe. It just can't be warm enough for them.

Even if the waves had been pumping there wouldn’t have been a lot of surfers. One advantage of this when surfing is that dropping-in is never a problem. It sounds like this can be a real issue among surfers at other beaches, particularly overseas. This wave theft can lead to arguments and even violence.

With the warmer weather we are currently experiencing, local Kiwis should put their play stations down, stop sitting on the Internet or in front of the tele and get along to the beach. International surfers and tourists are of course welcome too.

Here are a few photos taken at Waimairi Beach -

Mother Nature - If you respect her will she look after you?

No surfer can deny that a delight of surfing is becoming part of nature. There is something really special about being out in the ocean on your board. Surfing can be a real stress reliever and a time to unwind from life's chaos. Alternatively, it can be an absolute adrenalin rush for those who like to surf big waves. I guess there is a different mindset between long boarders and big wave surfers. You are lucky if you can ace both surfing styles.

I saw this quote by the legendary Kelly Slater ~

"Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.”

I think Slater’s quote illustrates what a great surfer he is. He becomes part of the wave. Clearly, it is important to respect Mother Nature and you just hope she will return the favour and not punish you … hehe. I learnt this the hard way with a gashed head and a sprained neck. All joking aside it is important to know your skill level.

The great thing about surfing is the respect for nature doesn’t just end in the water with the waves. There is the beach itself, marine life and often spectacular sunrises and sunsets to appreciate. I think a lot of surfers acknowledge this by becoming avid environmentalists and photographers. Clearly, there is a case to argued for surfing to be recognised as a religion.

Whale Strandings

For me personally there is nothing more heart breaking in nature than seeing a whale stranded. It is so sad to see these mystical creatures lose their way and end up beached on shores all over the world. With New Zealand having a large coast line we have our fair share. A multiple stranding is particularly devastating.

While, there are different theories for beaching, the question of why remains uncertain. Social cohesion of some species is thought to be a cause. If one whale is in trouble, its distress calls may prompt the rest of the pod to follow resulting in a mass beaching. Stranding has been attributed to natural and environmental causes, including weather, illness, birthing issues and navigation errors.

Project Jonah in New Zealand, a registered charity, performs an amazing job in which volunteers help whales, dolphins and seals. The organisation has pioneered whale rescue techniques that they have shared globally. Volunteers can complete a course to become a marine mammal medic to assist whales that become stranded.

Fingers crossed that in 2010 there will be minimal strandings across the world. Why not train to help these beautiful creatures that we share the ocean with or help in a beach cleanup. I also recommend you say NO to whaling!

Aloha, Bruddah!

Entering surfing at an older age and possibly because I live in New Zealand, I am not familiar with a lot of surfing terminology from today or yesteryear.

Surfers certainly have a unique language in describing all facets of the sport / hobby. If you are interested in the lingo look no further than Riptionary.com. It is the largest online surf lexicon and got to this stage from passionate surfers who have submitted entries and still do today. I haven’t had so much fun exploring a website in ages. I would be known as a Barney:

Someone who is less than skilled at surfing. Orginally derived from the cartoon character Barney on The Flinstones because he was similar to a hodad.

It is the most neat site that contains over one thousand entries divided into five broad categories: Culture, Oceanic, Equipment, Technique and Old School. A Most Popular category is also featured that lists the most searched terms and if you are like me and not up with the play there is a For Example category where terms are shown in context.

Enjoy this awesome dictionary.

Take it Easy,

Brendon

Two fish, one meat pattie, a hot dog & two scoops, thanks

The title of this post is probably a bit hypocritical after me going on about the importance of fitness in my last post. But what better way is there to finish a surfing session than having fish and chips on the beach.

I think fish and chips (or should I say fush and chups) are the greatest takeaway. You have probably guessed this by the fact I have devoted a post to them. I don’t see any problem in eating them as long as it’s in moderation. Although, I have to confess I have been guilty of eating them a bit too often in the past. I guess when you start struggling more than normal to get into your wetsuit it is probably time to lay off them … hehe

Visiting tourists also seem to love getting their fingers into this delicious takeaway. Although, originally from the United Kingdom, fish and chips have become a real kiwi tradition. They are New Zealand’s most popular takeaway. I think everyone loves ripping the parcel open and divulging in this delicacy.

The next time it is a pleasant day or evening why not treat yourself, your family or mates and get some. They are an awesome meal after surfing when you are too sore to cook or prepare something to eat. The best shops serve fresh fish from the same beach you are surfing. Grab your tomato sauce and enjoy some today. Go on, you know you want to!
ps ... Remember to dispose of your rubbish sensibly.

Short boarding tips / help

As you know I am a poor surfer even on a long board therefore I was horrendously bad on my new short board. I clearly made the transition to a short board too fast. Despite this I am going to persist with both boards. Ideally, I will one day be able to perform the graceful art of long boarding and also the modern tricks of short boarding.

I did some research on how to be a better short boarder. Here are some tips which will hopefully help me and others who may also be learning:

1. Practice, practice and practice! Surf as often as possible. Clearly, I need to get my ass off surfing the internet and on to the waves. Catch as many waves as you can and don't beat yourself up or worry too much about your mistakes. Good things take time.

2. Fitness is important – both upper body muscles and legs. This is required for paddling power and getting to your feet. I need to definitely improve on my fitness.

3. Although, a bit embarrassing it is not a bad idea to practice the standing up position out of the water. Lie in a paddle like position then push up and spring your legs under into the standing stance.

4. Balance is important so when in the water practice lying flat and sitting up on your board. Also practice swinging around 180 degrees pulling yourself into position ready for the incoming wave. Being able to accelerate quickly into position is essential so also practice short / fast paddling.

5. Put your chin up and look where you are going, not at your feet. Have your arms out stretched a bit, your knees bent a little and stay calm and focused.

6. Learn to read the waves and understand how it is going to wall, section or fat out. I am still learning to master this skill.

Hope this is some help. Happy surfing everyone.

It was like trying to surf a match stick!

Last week I bought a second hand short board. I thought it was time to move from a long board and learn the art of short boarding. More manoeuvrability has always appealed to me. I want to learn how to perform high speed turns.

Then, today, I went surfing to try out my new board. Standing on the dunes at the beach I knew it was not going to be a great day as the waves were small. It was a rubbish day weather wise, drizzle and 13 degrees (so much for summer) but I didn’t care. The weather proved the least of my problems … haha.

Carrying the 6’6’’ board to the water was a piece of cake in comparison to my 9’2” long board. There is nothing worse than fighting the wind with your board on the way to the water. I found the centre of the board easy enough when paddling out but standing was a different story. The waves were not steep and every time I tried to stand I fell off. Balancing was a real problem. Even if the waves had been better I know I still would have struggled.

My long board is so much easier to surf. It is like standing on a barge, compared to the match stick sized short board. After two hours the waves were getting even smaller so I called it a day. I learnt gradual process from a bigger board to a shorter narrow board certainly takes practice. Reading the wave patterns is also more important when using a short board.

Can you handle the Jandal?

I am an easy going person who has never been into expensive surf clothing labels. I can’t stand the idea of people thinking they are better than others by the clothing they wear. My favourite item of clothing are my jandals (flip flops). This form of footwear is awesome for knocking around the beach and town during summer.

I have just completed a Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos holiday and would not have survived without my jandals. Furthermore, the price for a pair is fantastic. They are dirt cheap and available in hundreds of colours and designs. There is absolutely no need to buy expensive ones!

Jandals can be found in all corners of the globe and are worn by locals in developing countries right through to those in Beverley Hills, USA. The great thing is they are not restricted to a specific social class. They are just good old fashioned jandals for anyone and everyone.

The term jandals is unique to New Zealand and they have become part of Kiwi culture. They are the perfect gift for surfers and beach lovers. It doesn’t matter how wet they get, how much sun they see or even if the dog runs away with one. Let the revolution continue. Toast the Jandals.

New Zealand Surfing Guide

If you are learning to surf or are experienced, a local Kiwi or a tourist, you will find the jam packed New Zealand Surfing Guide very handy. This 550 page guide contains 470 detailed break maps. There are also 80 line up pictures and a 16 page colour gallery. This guide is perfect for planning a surfing road trip.

Two years of work went into compiling this guide - a lot of passion and love for surfing. Local surfers assisted in providing detailed information on the listed spots. The surfing community are lucky to have been given such great knowledge and insight.

Clever icons give detailed information for each spot and a stoke metre rates each break on a scale of 1 to 10. The guide also shows surfers how to learn to read the weather and predict swells. There are over 60 local area synoptic charts featured in the book.

Author, Peter Morse, acknowledges how complex New Zealand’s volcanic and reef lined coastline is and how much of it is still largely unexplored.

This gold bar sized guide book is just that gold. It is a perfect size for the car glove box or your carry bag where you can swat up on your next surfing adventure when you have a spare moment.

Paddling out – Feel the burn!

Nothing beats the feeling of standing up the first time when learning to surf. It is a huge sense of achievement. I am sure many surfers can remember this moment fondly. I couldn’t get the smile off my face. In order to catch a wave you must learn the unglamorous but essential skill of paddling out. If you aren’t incredibly fit (like me haha) don’t buy a really heavy surfboard, although beginners are best to learn on long boards. A soft top board is ideal if you are starting out. These reduce the number bruises you will get.

Before you begin paddling out it is a good idea to stand on the beach and look to see if there is a lull in the waves. If there is this is the best place to paddle. You save your energy when you don’t have to fight the waves. However, often conditions will dictate and there isn’t a lull.

I always walk out with my board until the water is just over my waist. This allows me to adjust to the cooler water temperature down here in New Zealand and also to note whether there is a drag at the beach and the direction it is pulling.

When you lay on the deck of your board the aim of paddling is to find the best trim position that provides the least resistance. Cup your hands to improve your pull. Lift your chest slightly when being hit by incoming waves. When your board moves smoothly through the water you have found the best paddling position. Most boards you try will be slightly different.

Today I went surfing for 2 hours in a 3 metre swell. I couldn’t paddle out as far as I would have liked. My arms began to ache. The more I paddled the more I got pushed back. I ended out being absolutely punished. It is amazing what odd angles your body can end up in when you are wiped out by big waves ... haha. It’s always fun to catch the smaller waves closer to the shore. They are also good to practice paddling out. But, one day I will hopefully be able to surf bigger waves.

Greetings everyone!

Right, let's do this! This blog is all about surfing . As you may gather from its title I am a really, really bad surfer. In just a few months I have had a sprained neck, gashed head and a countless number of bruises. However, I love the sport / hobby. As long as you are having fun who cares how good or bad you are. I am a Kiwi and have been surfing for a couple of years now. My local beaches are New Brighton, North Beach & Waimari in Christchurch, New Zealand.

This blog is for everyone - the global surfing community, beginners to advanced, short and long boarders. Everything surfing and surfing related will be discussed. Please feel free to contribute and offer advice to this poor surfer. Enjoy the waves, Brendon