
Before you begin paddling out it is a good idea to stand on the beach and look to see if there is a lull in the waves. If there is this is the best place to paddle. You save your energy when you don’t have to fight the waves. However, often conditions will dictate and there isn’t a lull.
I always walk out with my board until the water is just over my waist. This allows me to adjust to the cooler water temperature down here in New Zealand and also to note whether there is a drag at the beach and the direction it is pulling.
When you lay on the deck of your board the aim of paddling is to find the best trim position that provides the least resistance. Cup your hands to improve your pull. Lift your chest slightly when being hit by incoming waves. When your board moves smoothly through the water you have found the best paddling position. Most boards you try will be slightly different.
Today I went surfing for 2 hours in a 3 metre swell. I couldn’t paddle out as far as I would have liked. My arms began to ache. The more I paddled the more I got pushed back. I ended out being absolutely punished. It is amazing what odd angles your body can end up in when you are wiped out by big waves ... haha. It’s always fun to catch the smaller waves closer to the shore. They are also good to practice paddling out. But, one day I will hopefully be able to surf bigger waves.
No comments:
Post a Comment